A Glimpse in the Rearview Mirror: 2013 (But, keep an eye on the road ahead)

Arrival at the Gulf of Mexico on December 5, 2013.
Arrival at the Gulf of Mexico on December 5, 2013.

On April 14, 2013, I left Columbia, MO, and set out on an extraordinary solo kayak voyage down the 4th longest river system in the world, the 3,800-mile Missouri-Mississippi River System. Upon completing the expedition on December 5, 2013, I became the first American, and first woman, to traverse the entire river system from source to sea. 

Okay. One step at a time. Breathe...
Okay. One step at a time. Breathe…
Packed up and ready to go on April 14, 2013
Packed up and ready to go on April 14, 2013

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My mission began as an empowerment model for our nation’s youth, showing them that dreams can be achieved through decision, desire, and details (and hard work). The mission soon flourished into an empowerment model not only for youth, but for adult women and men as well. At 57 years old, I was living proof that neither gender nor age should prevent you from pursuing your dream. Not only that, the expedition embraced education and environmental stewardship by bringing awareness to Missouri River Relief, a not-for-profit river clean-up and education organization. Our hope is to bring the Missouri River into the classroom, and the classroom out to the river. Touching the river, knowing the river, and loving the river are key ingredients to sustaining the health and vitality of our planet’s veins and arteries. 

Welcoming party in Memphis, TN
Welcoming party in Memphis, TN
Bringing the classroom out to the river.
Bringing the classroom out to the river. Photo by Missouri River Relief
The next generation
The next generation-Photo by Missouri River Relief

The adventure began on April 24, 2013, when Norman Miller and I skied into the ultimate source of the Missouri River, Brower’s Spring, in southern Montana near West Yellowstone. We planned for 7 hours and finished in 31 hours, much to our surprise. We spent the night in the mountains with no sleeping gear, food, or fire. Let the adventure begin! 

After a 30-year absence I was delighted to be ski mountaineering again.
After a 30-year absence I was delighted to be ski mountaineering again.
Our shelter for the night and our celebratory beer now turned calorie provider.
Our impromptu shelter and our celebratory beer, now turned carbo provider.
Conditions could have been life-threatening with any kind of weather. As it was, we layed awake all night shivering.
Conditions could have been life-threatening with any kind of weather. As it was, we just layed awake all night shivering.

The next leg involved biking 100 miles through the Centennial Valley. This dirt road traversed Red Rock River to Clark Canyon Dam. The Red Rock River is not paddler friendly as it is full of man-made dams composed of barbed wire, wood, electrical wire, and corrugated sheet metal. I put my kayak in the Beaverhead River below Clark Canyon Dam on May 1, 2013. The Beaverhead eventually turns into the Jefferson River, which becomes the Missouri River about 200 miles downstream at Three Forks, MT.

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Any amount of rain would have rendered this road useless for travel, car OR bike, because of the mud. My expedition was blessed with ideal weather conditions.
Red Rock River obstruction
Red Rock River obstruction, one of dozens, making paddling slow, laborious, and dangerous.

My first day was a test of will as I became entangled in a tree strainer, spraining my hand and nearly dumping my boat. On day two, I put two holes in my boat, thankfully above water line, as the swift and narrow Beaverhead River made it difficult to avoid collisions with snags along shore. Nothing a little duct tape couldn’t fix! After 11 days of paddling I arrived at Three Forks, where I then regrouped at Norm Millers’ Base Camp International in Livingston, MT, patched the holes in my boat, and set off down the Missouri River at Three Forks on May 15, 2013. The rest, really, is history as I proceeded to live life on the river, with simplicity and joy, for the next seven months.

This photo, along with the sunset pic below, were the most popular expedition posts. Taken on the Beaverhead River, Day 1 on the water.
A bad omen? Perish the thought. Onward! On the Beaverhead River
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The Beaverhead River, where you can find a predicament around every corner.
First-time fiberglass patcher-two holes
First-time fiberglass patcher-two holes, no less.
On the Jefferson River. Photo courtesy of Norm Miller
On the Jefferson River (with duct tape patches). Photo courtesy of Norm Miller

I will cherish this expedition until the day I die.  I experienced challenging decision-making, marvelously mellow mornings, exasperating electrical storms, wild wind and waves, stunning sunsets, random acts of kindness, unforgettable human river angels, the wonders of wildlife, big huge barges, even bigger and huger freighters ;), and frightening fog. Last but not least I met a whole world of beautiful and extraordinary supporters up and down the river to whom I cannot give enough thanks, and whom I now consider river family.

Please enjoy a few expedition photos I picked out, in no logical order, but which are among some of my favorites. You may remember…

Friends from the first day to the last. Love my pelicans.
Friends from the first day to the last. Love my pelicans.
Hiking on windy Fort Peck Lake
Hiking on windy Fort Peck Lake
Have never seen another quite so stunning as this sunset
Have never seen another quite so stunning as this sunset
Well, it IS the Big Muddy!
Well, it IS the Big Muddy!
The morning after the worst electrical storm of the trip. Fort Peck Lake
The morning after the worst electrical storm of the trip. Fort Peck Lake
Nearing the Montana-North Dakota border
Below Fort Peck Lake, I think. Still muddy, but getting better.
Gates of the Rocky Mountains
Gates of the Rocky Mountains – Holter Lake, MT
Gates of the Rocky Mountains. Hard to leave this wondrous place
Gates of the Rocky Mountains. Hard to leave this wondrous place. Corps of Discovery camped right across the river.
The stoic bald eagle
The stoic bald eagle
Tow and barge on the Mississippi River
Tow and barge on the Mississippi River
A very special heart stone found just below the Ohio River confluence
A very special heart stone found just below the Ohio River confluence
New Orleans
New Orleans
Sharing the Mississippi River with tankers and freighters, always keeping one eye in front and one eye to the rear. They are quiet vessels.
Sharing the lower Mississippi River with tankers and freighters, always keeping one eye in front and one eye to the rear. They are quiet vessels.
My stellar support crew in the Gulf fog
My stellar Gulf support crew in the Gulf fog
The fog just lifted as we began crossing the Head of Passes. Nothing short of a miracle.
The fog just lifted as we began crossing the Head of Passes using a hand-held GPS device. This was a super exhilarating moment. Unforgettable. Even the ship pilot crossing the pass remembers the moment I came into view.
Yes, the pilot of this ship. Pilottown crew were stellar support on this stretch manning the radio communication.
Yes, the pilot of this ship. Pilottown crew provided much comfort on this stretch with their radio communication and hospitality. I am so thankful for them.
Grizzly bear track below Hell Roaring Canyon. Photo taken by my daughter Haley who was sleeping in a car with Jeannie, waiting for us to come out after a 24 hour delay.
Grizzly bear track below Hell Roaring Canyon. Photo taken by my daughter Haley who was sleeping in a car with Jeannie, waiting for us to come out after a 24 hour delay.
Buffalo skull next to my camp that speaks historical volumes
Buffalo skull found next to my camp below Fort Benton, MT, that speaks historical volumes.
Bridge City Marina, home of special river angels
Bridge City Marina in Mobridge, SD, home of very special river angel, Michael Norder and his lovely family.
Hole in the Wall, Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument
Hole in the Wall, Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, MT
Making camp
Making camp
Curious Pronghorn Deer
Curious pronghorn antelope in Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge
Sweet heart blue hole on the Mississippi River
Sweet heart blue hole on the middle Mississippi River
The Natchez of New Orleans.
The Natchez of New Orleans.
Great Horned Owl Babies in Great Falls, MT
Great Horned Owl Babies in Great Falls, MT
One of several lone pelicans escorting me down the South Pass to bid me farewell, I think
One of several lone pelicans escorting me down the South Pass to bid me farewell. BFF

Please visit my sponsor page at the top of my site to see the wonderful companies that believed in me and helped me out in some way to ease the financial burden. Special thanks to Patagonia for their generous clothing sponsorship. Eddyline for their excellent service with my boat as well as donating the best paddle I could ever imaging taking, a Swift Paddle. Many heart-felt thanks to all of Columbia, Mo’s outdoor shops for donating items to LoveYourBigMuddy. Huge thanks especially to our Klunk Bikes for re’cycling’ me a bike, which I love very much to this day.

And to every person that was able to donate financially, I know who you are and you will NOT be forgotten. Particularly my local Riverbilly family and those contributing to the Blues Benefit. Click here to see who these tremendous supporters of LoveYourBigMuddy are. This was YOUR expedition! THANK YOU! If you see a photo you would like on this post and it is part of your donation reward, please email me and let me know. I will be posting more photos shortly.

For a comprehensive view of media articles and podcasts, click here to visit my media page, located at the top of the site.

Lastly, warm thoughts go out to the crew at Canoe and Kayak Magazine, and to all of the individuals who took a moment to vote LoveYourBigMuddy Expedition into the “Spirit of Adventure” Award arena for 2014. Certainly, the honor was all mine to receive the award in the midst of an incredible paddling family. YOU, too, can be a candidate for such a cool recognition. Just…

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Dave Shively, editor, and one of many very cool people who have created this outstanding paddling magazine and helped to create an international paddling family. Three cheers!!! Click here to visit the award ceremony.

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…remember to keep your eyes on the road ahead. Don’t quit your DayDream. And, dream BIG!

LoveYourBigMuddy Expedition on Facebook. see what’s up…

Oh, one last thing, a toast to LoveYourBigMuddy

Still reeling from the high

The Blog Reality of it All

The blog reality is:  I wanted to post a page about River Relief clean ups before I leave, and I did that today. The page is all about the St. Charles clean up last weekend.  But, holy smokes, Batman, blog pages/posts take a lot of time and tender loving care, hours in fact.

To my blog followers: check my FaceBook Expedition Page often because blog posts will be more brief and less frequent once I’m on the water. I will be updating, but not blogging so much.  Just wanted to get that out there.

Yikes! 3 days to go!! Tribune interview on Saturday.  Send off at Cooper’s on Sunday!
Live fast ~ Paddle slow

And always, go with the flow.

Theo
Theo

Efficiency is key

Getting a little nervous now, and must work efficiently.  Countdown 12 days, YIKES!  I am scheduled to substitute teach the next three days.  Then, off to St. Charles for the Missouri River Relief clean-up (arrive Fri-leave Sun), plus a crew meeting tonight at 6:30.  Next week I will be putting all the puzzle pieces together, practicing packing the boat, and hoping that I get called for a teaching interview which will, ideally, land me a job for the next school year.

On Saturday night, April 13, my daughter, Haley, and my niece and her family, Rene, Kyle, and Sam, and I will be attending the Dance Showcase at the Columbia Performing Arts Center.  My cousin, Jen Lee, teaches dancing there (she taught there when Haley was in Junior High) and puts together the grand finale of all the dance classes, the Showcase.  Also, several of my students will be performing that night, Lauren, Kaylin and Rachel.  They will be happy to see me there.  They are such great dancers!

Sunday send-off will be the next day at Cooper’s Landing, April 14, 10:00AM.  Wow!  Ya, I’m a little nervous.  Here is a list I composed between midnight and 2:00 AM last night.  I keep paper and pen bedside.  Every time I think of a little to-do item, I have to write it down, there are so many. These are just a few of the things that came to mind last night.  Oh, and add American flag for the boat onto that list.

Midnight To Do List-April 2, 2013
Midnight To Do List-April 2, 2013

I conducted a loosely traditional christening ceremony before dropping Blue Moon in the water for her first voyage with her new name.  This was last Sunday, March 31, and a fun time despite the fact I forgot my really cool christening script I found online. Technology prevailed and I was able to  access the first paragraph, which I had posted earlier in the week.  The rest was improvisation, and seemed perfectly acceptable to all present.

The, the flotilla had a most wonderful paddle under blue skies and mild temperatures.  My Eddyline Shasta truly is a dream boat.  Blue Moon, Sweet Dream.  We bonded.  Ya, we got this!

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Blue Moon (next I have to apply the blog address, maybe today) handled tenderly by Joe Kellenberger and Michael Stacy.
Megan May setting up cameras for her Missourian video story.  She has been following me around getting footage.
Megan May setting up cameras for her Missourian video story.
She has been following me around getting footage.
Reading the script off my iPhone.
Reading the script off my iPhone.
First time in the water as "Blue Moon."
First time in the water as “Blue Moon.”
The christening cruise crew
The christening cruise crew, L-R: Amanda Faith and Theo, Alison Kellenberger, daughter Hannah, Janet Moreland, Joe Kellenberger and Talia, Michael Stacy, Jonathan Lauten
Talia
Tally, riding shotgun? With Joe.
Theo
Theo, first time on the river, with Amanda.
The Joseph M. LaBarge, Roger and Barbara Giles' vessel.
We met up with The Joseph M. LaBarge, Roger and Barbara Giles’ vessel, at Eagle Bluffs.
waving
Ahoy!

Wednesday evening, March 27, we had a wonderful heart-warming turn out for the Love Your Big Muddy Blues Benefit.  Many of the finest musicians in Columbia played Red Hot Blues that night.  Heidi Branaugh organized the event, with help from our committee, and things worked out beautifully.  $1600 was raised to help with my expenses, and for that I am enormously grateful.  Certainly, the evening was incredibly special and a memorable one for all.  Much love in our community shined forth that night.  And Shane Perrin, The Stand Up Guy, came to the event!  What a wonderful supporter and inspiration.  He planted a few seeds in my mind while visiting together!  😉

Talking about paddling rivers.  Fun stuff!
Talking with Shane Perrin about paddling rivers. Likin’ it!!
My daughter, Haley, will be part of my support for the first week or two.
My daughter, Haley, will be part of my support for the first week or two.
Johnny D'Agostino and Alan Loshbaugh
Johnny D’Agostino and Alan Loshbaugh, so great!
Band-Sax and Harp
L-R, Scott McCullough, Charley Waddill on drums,
Tony Lotven with sax in hand and Alan Loshbaugh
Charlie Brown Boogie Down Dance Contest
Charlie Brown Boogie Down Dance Contest
L-R, Dennis Ternamian, Charley Waddill and Jim Quisenberry
L-R, Dennis Ternamian, Charley Waddill and Jim Quisenberry
Dave and Band
L-R, Zed Zardov, Scott McCullough, Dave Bandy, Charley Waddill

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And our most gracious and talented host, Heidi, announcing the raffle winners.
And our most gracious and talented host, Heidi, announcing the raffle winners.
Raffle items
Lovely raffle items donated by beautiful people.
Food
Complimentary appetizers

Media interest has picked up, which I suppose is to be expected.  Ciera and Megan, journalism students at the University of Missouri, are working for the Columbia Missourian to get a story out soon.  Ciera is working on a written article and Megan is working on a corresponding video story.

Ciera started her story awhile back. Should publish soon.
Ciera started her story awhile back. Should publish soon.
Megan May getting shots for her video story.  Here, we applied the new name to the boat in the house since the temps outside were too cold.
Megan May getting shots for her video story. Here, we applied the new name to the boat in the house since the temps outside were too cold.

Loved talking with Elizabeth Labauch, who wrote a blog post about the expedition for Footprint Magazine.  Footprint Magazine is produced by Sustain Mizzou, an environmental student group at the University of Missouri.  Tina Casagrand does a great job of keeping the magazine vibrant.  Liz did a great piece from a somewhat different perspective.  You can read her article posted to the Media Coverage Page on this blog.

I met with Simon Rose and Rene on the KFRU Morning Meeting yesterday.  Be sure and check out the on-air interview, also posted on the Media Coverage Page at the top of my blog.

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Right now I am waiting for Philip White to call.  He wants to interview me for The SUP magazine online.  Cool.  He also writes for Canoe and Kayak.  Doubly cool.

Just got off the phone with Philip.  Great friendly conversation.  I’ll keep you posted.

And finally, Leslie Kolovich and I did a podcast for her SUP radio show, Paddle for the Planet.  Most enjoyable conversation with her, on and off air.  Leslie is passionate for paddling AND the planet.  Check out our podcast interview in the Media Coverage drop down list.  And, check out her SUP Radio Show where she interviews, and supports, the paddling communities everywhere!

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Leslie Astin Kolovich

Well, folks, got another blog post out here, didn’t I?  That wasn’t even on my ToDo list.  I will strive to keep you faithful followers updated during my trip.  I anticipate I will be very busy taking photos, videos, charging up the laptop, writing in my journal, paddling onward, and keeping my hands clean.  They don’t call it the Big Muddy for nothing, you know!

Feel free to suggest, inspire, encourage, and entertain by leaving a comment any time.  Always appreciated!  Cheers!

Life is a journey.  Live fast ~ Paddle slow

See You On The River…

Christening the Boat, Gearing up and Cleaning the River

“For thousands of years, we have gone to sea. We have crafted vessels to carry us and we have called them by name. These ships will nurture and care for us through perilous seas, and so we affectionately call them “she.” To them we toast, and ask to celebrate “BLUE MOON.” Then everybody raises their glass filled with champagne or your favorite non-alcoholic beverage and shouts, “TO THE SAILORS OF OLD…TO BLUE MOON.” Everybody takes a sip.

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That is the start of the script for the christening ceremony.  Tomorrow, a.k.a., Easter Sunday, Blue Moon will take her first ride in the Missouri River as the Blue Moon.  For those of you who are not aware, Bob Bellingham of Australia paddled down the Missouri River last summer in the same boat, which was then the Barbara May.  In the spirit of  “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle,” I have purchased Bob’s boat for my expedition, and she is no stranger to the river.

Bob Bellingham in his Shasta, which is now my Shasta, and my ride down the river.
Bob Bellingham in his Shasta, which is now my Shasta,
and my ride down the river.

The Barbara May brought Bob down the river, from Three Forks to St. Louis, in 89 days.  Ideally, Blue Moon will replicate that schedule so that I arrive in St. Louis on August 1st (give or take a couple of days).  Tomorrow, I will conduct a short ceremony in order to loosely hold on to the tradition of renaming and/or christening a boat.  Those paddling with me, and anyone else interested, are invited to take part.

Today, I hope to apply this blog site address onto the sides of Blue Moon.

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Things are really revving up, gear-wise.  Packages are showing up on my porch, such as the lettering for my web address, my solar panel, compression dry sacks, my sleeping bag, a camera, cleaner for the boat deck, etc.

I spent 3 hours in Batteries + yesterday trying to assemble an appropriate electronic system to charge my laptop from the roll-up solar panel.  Solar panels do not advertise laptop charging.  Normally, they are geared for only the smaller electronic appliances, i.e., iPhone, iPad, camera, or GPS.  After yesterday,  I’m ready to teach a Physics lesson for sure.

I had to get a 12V battery, which I learned, come in a wide variety of sizes and corresponding weights.  I need a battery that will not be too big, but that will charge my laptop up in a reasonable amount of time and/or charging sessions.  I won’t go into any details because my brain is still tired from yesterday’s numerous calculations.  Big thanks to Herb for patiently assisting me in assembling a system!  And thanks to Chad, Batteries+ store owner, who gave me a business account, which results in a small discount on all of the accessories I bought…

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for my roll-up solar charger.  Big thanks to Julia at PowerFilmSolar for the discount, too.

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One of the employees at Batteries+ suggested a wind turbine for the boat.  Holy cow, that’s brilliant!  I’m sure I’ll be thinking a lot about that on those windy days on the lakes!

I have been dehydrating lots of food and vacuum sealing small packages.  Why have I not been doing this for the last 30 years?  The beef jerky is out of this world!  And, the bananas, green apples, pineapple, etc. are all soooo delicious! I’ve also dried tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, peppers, and spaghetti sauce.  Yep, spaghetti sauce.  Starting on broccoli today.  These veggies will be wonderful to throw into my side dish pasta meals.

Dried-Tomatoes-mushrooms
Naturally dried tomatoes and mushrooms

I now have my tent, sleeping bag, stove, Thermarest, paddling gear, under layers, neoprene boots and shoes, Teva sandals, portable hard drive, three cameras, an iPhone, a laptop (which I’ve owned for a long time and hope it performs), maps, drybags, compression dry bags, compass, whistle, wheeleez for portaging, and a lot of little items that I had to pick up as I walked through Walt’s Wilderness store.  Little things like a first-aid kit, meal kit, coffee french-press with cup set, moleskin, caribiners, and a wide-mouth water bottle for my alfalfa sprouts.  I even picked up my one and only packaged freeze-dried meal:  camp eggs!  I love eggs and will need to cook up this package for some special occasion, which could be anything, like one full day with zero wind!!  I may be missing my eggs on this trip.

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I will test my gear this week-end when I go to Missouri River Relief’s MO River clean-up in St. Charles.  Seven years have passed since I started back to school and have not had an opportunity to go to a river clean-up since.  These clean-up events are a must-do activity for everyone, ESPECIALLY, river communities.  The sense of accomplishment, camaraderie, and contribution to society cannot be fully appreciated until you take part in one.  I am so looking forward to being with fellow river stewards, cleaning up the trash, and trying out the gear that I will become one with for the next 3 and 1/2 months.  I definitely have to make sure that French Press works.  Gotta have my cup of Joe to get my day on track!

Confluence Clean-Up in 2012.  Jeannie Kuntz massages the crew (She'll be driving to Montana with me and my daughter Haley. :))
Confluence Clean-Up in 2012. Jeannie Kuntz massages the crew after a long day. (Jeannie will be driving to Montana with my daughter Haley and me. :))
St. Charles Clean-up in 2011
River Warriors
St. Charles Clean-up in 2011

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Stay tuned for an upcoming post in which I will share with you the red-hot heart-warming LoveYourBigMuddy Blues Benefit from last Wednesday, March 27.

Live fast ~ Paddle slow

See you on the river!

Hermann Community Impromptu River Clean-Up Admirable

What if ALL Missouri River communities were so motivated?  Wow!  Impressive!

And, it was bitter cold yesterday…

“The fact that 16 volunteers made it to the clean-up with less than 36 hours notice on a holiday weekend is testimony to the commitment and enthusiasm these people have for the river. ”

For full story click HERE

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Students Getting Out There! I love it!

Our local Douglas High School students braving the cold weather to learn first hand about river stewardship and environmental responsibility.  You guys ROCK!  From Missouri River Relief’s FB page:

“A big thanks to Douglass High school students for braving the river with us today and their teacher John Reid for making it happen! We also enjoyed the company of some local “rotarians”, one of our new sponsors, a photo-journalism student, our faithful dog Sombra, and a couple sailing the Mighty Mo. in a canoe complete with a homemade sail! What a day! More photos to come soon hopefully.”

AND…Sioux City, Iowa, middle-school students contribute to, and learn about, environmental responsibility in their local watershed…

Three cheers to these outstanding and inspirational learners!  You guys ROCK!  That is soooo cool!

Check them out HERE!

Three Cheers to our Inconspicuous Victors this last Week-end!!!

Victory in St. Joseph!

So many victories on the rivers this last week end!  Hats off and kudos to these awe-inspiring challenges and extraordinary achievements.  But the humblest of all heroes are in St. Joseph and they deserve our attention, too.  First, though, a recap of events:

Mark Kalch is first man to paddle the Missouri River from source to Gulf, completing two out of seven of the longest rivers on seven continents.  http://www.7rivers7continents.com/worlds-end/

Dave Corthwaite swims 1000 miles of the Missouri River and pulls into the St. Louis Arch having completed his trek with his team.  https://www.facebook.com/expedition1000

Tyler Ranes and Tom Walker finish their (aluminum) canoe trip from Great Falls, Montana, to New Orleans.  https://www.facebook.com/tyler.ranes.5?ref=ts&fref=ts

Brent Mills and Hunter from Greenville, South Carolina had reached the Gulf the very morning Mark Kalch did, having paddled the length of the Mississippi River from Lake Ithasca.  https://www.facebook.com/brent.mill?ref=ts&fref=ts

 Dom Liboiron Canoeing to New Orleans in Memory of my Uncle Mitch, Rod Wellington https://www.facebook.com/rod.wellington.9?ref=ts&fref=ts , and Matthew Batton https://www.facebook.com/matthew.batten.73?ref=ts&fref=ts are still paddling on the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers.

But let me tell you about the unsung heroes on the Missouri River.  The citizens of St. Joseph, Missouri, under the leadership of Missouri River Relief, spent a cold day on the river cleaning up trash from its river banks on Saturday.  Different strokes for different folks (no pun intended), these adults, children, men, and women reaped unforgettable rewards and earned quiet respect because of their selfless service to help make our Big Muddy one of the cleanest and finest rivers in all the land.

Three cheers to River Relief and the folks in St. Joseph!!!  You should stand tall among the victories that graced our mighty waterways this last week-end, October 6, 2012.

(Clean up photos by Rachel Beck  www.rachelbeckphotos.com )